Mansilla de las Mulas

DAVE: The day before, we had a decision to make on the route to take outside of Sahagun. Either the modern route to Bercianos de real Camino for the evening or the old Roman route to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos. We chose the latter route. If we have a choise of a road route or a more delolate path, we alawya choose the latter. This morning, we left Calzadilla de los Hermanillos for Mansilla de las Mulas.our preference in the morningi is to walk for about 6 to 8 kilometers before getting breakfast (an hour and a half to two hours). However, since we were on the Roman Road route, our next village was 20 kilometers away, a 5 hour walk. We had some food in our pack so pushed on. I must say, I love the early morning before the sun comes up.

The walk was beautiful, stark, desolate, and lonely.  Laerciol Jim, and I walked for miles without a soul around for a good part of the day. The terrain was flat and the sky was cloudless. We always start the day with our jackets on, headlamps blazing, anf hats on, but the cloudless sky was a clue that the afternoon would be hot. By 10 o'clock, we were in shirt sleeves and sun hats.

Although the terrain was flat, we were walking on andirt road with cobblestone-sized rocks so each step had to be carefully placed to avoid any mis-step and possible ankle spains. Doing this delicate walk for miles ican be difficult. We like to average at least a 4 kilometers an hour pace so picking your way through rocks can be maddening. Most of the countryside was devoid of significant vegetation and consisted of plowed fields (wheat?). Around noon, we ended up in Reliegos, past Hobbit homes in a hillside (seriously!)

and found a great bar for lunch.  

Walking in, the music was blasting (Allman Brothers, Johnny Cash). What a real treat it was to find this oasis.  We could have spent the afternoon there, but had to eventually leave for our final destination for the night.  We arrived in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos around 2:00, tired but in good spirits. 

I must say that some planning and assistance is needed in going from village to village day after day. Jim and I have a trip agenda that lists each town we plan on reaching each night.  However, we don't just walk into each village at the end of our days and seek a place to stay.  Since we are a large group now (Jim, me, Laercio, Rosie, Wendy, Lei, Charro, Dan, Dione) that is not possible. We have to plan ahead for our stays.  Our ritual each night is to check in to our albergue, get our Credencial stamped, shower, lay out clothing for the following morning, check on dinner plans, research albergues for subsequent nights, then eiher call them directly or have the Hospitalero (volunteers) at the albergue call for us.  I must say, the Hospitaleros are tireless, cheerful, and willing to assist us pilgrims at the drop of a hat on any request we have.  They are an amazing group of people and wihout their help, we would surely have difficulties with reservations.  They are the true heart of the Camino. We love them all.