Day 20

JIM: Wow! 2/3 done! Here in Leon

Last night dinner was cool.our family,new,of 15 at a large table.i toasted and we ate croquette with meat balls and yogurts with nuts and honey. Was good.

  We have walked a long ways,over the oldest Roman roads in Spain. We have come across some interesting things.Yesterday we saw some cave like structures that reminded me of my wine cellar in Preston.(see pic).i think I need to build a new cellar in hawaii.Cave like.

   The road has been long and arduous. I have seen many people drop out,people with fractures and many people who can not handle carrying their packs, including all of the Hawaiin woman,recently our friend Lairceo and Deon had to stop two days because of her feet.We see grave markers along the way of people who have passed . It is all a bit sobering.

   We walked into Leon today. The city is beautiful. We took a tour of the cathedral.built in 1250 with a city population of 5000.truly remarkable.Gothic in its grandeur with ribbed  ceilingbuttresses and stained glass.Amazing! Wide walkways for people with fountains. European cities rock.

   The meal tonight was ok.had good wine with an average tapas and octupos.Hung out with Dan and Deon.

  wrote a little poem from my thoughts on the Meseta.

Sunrise to sunset

Is it meaningless?

 We are just stardust

But continue to lust

Religion,spirit,charity, we strive

To find meaning in life we drive

Yet finite life we find

The clock is ticking time

The circle of life is real

But 80 years is a steal

What difference can we make

Does it matter for our fate

One thing is for sure

The human spirit will endure

Mansilla de las Mulas

DAVE: The day before, we had a decision to make on the route to take outside of Sahagun. Either the modern route to Bercianos de real Camino for the evening or the old Roman route to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos. We chose the latter route. If we have a choise of a road route or a more delolate path, we alawya choose the latter. This morning, we left Calzadilla de los Hermanillos for Mansilla de las Mulas.our preference in the morningi is to walk for about 6 to 8 kilometers before getting breakfast (an hour and a half to two hours). However, since we were on the Roman Road route, our next village was 20 kilometers away, a 5 hour walk. We had some food in our pack so pushed on. I must say, I love the early morning before the sun comes up.

The walk was beautiful, stark, desolate, and lonely.  Laerciol Jim, and I walked for miles without a soul around for a good part of the day. The terrain was flat and the sky was cloudless. We always start the day with our jackets on, headlamps blazing, anf hats on, but the cloudless sky was a clue that the afternoon would be hot. By 10 o'clock, we were in shirt sleeves and sun hats.

Although the terrain was flat, we were walking on andirt road with cobblestone-sized rocks so each step had to be carefully placed to avoid any mis-step and possible ankle spains. Doing this delicate walk for miles ican be difficult. We like to average at least a 4 kilometers an hour pace so picking your way through rocks can be maddening. Most of the countryside was devoid of significant vegetation and consisted of plowed fields (wheat?). Around noon, we ended up in Reliegos, past Hobbit homes in a hillside (seriously!)

and found a great bar for lunch.  

Walking in, the music was blasting (Allman Brothers, Johnny Cash). What a real treat it was to find this oasis.  We could have spent the afternoon there, but had to eventually leave for our final destination for the night.  We arrived in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos around 2:00, tired but in good spirits. 

I must say that some planning and assistance is needed in going from village to village day after day. Jim and I have a trip agenda that lists each town we plan on reaching each night.  However, we don't just walk into each village at the end of our days and seek a place to stay.  Since we are a large group now (Jim, me, Laercio, Rosie, Wendy, Lei, Charro, Dan, Dione) that is not possible. We have to plan ahead for our stays.  Our ritual each night is to check in to our albergue, get our Credencial stamped, shower, lay out clothing for the following morning, check on dinner plans, research albergues for subsequent nights, then eiher call them directly or have the Hospitalero (volunteers) at the albergue call for us.  I must say, the Hospitaleros are tireless, cheerful, and willing to assist us pilgrims at the drop of a hat on any request we have.  They are an amazing group of people and wihout their help, we would surely have difficulties with reservations.  They are the true heart of the Camino. We love them all.

Calzadilla de Los hermanillos

JIM: Two nights ago, I bought a birthday cake for larcio and we had a birthday celebration. Dan and Deon bought the best bottle of wine in the house(Ribera ) and we had a lot of fun. Lamb for dinner was good, but expensive. 25 dollars.

  Last night again had 10 or so people at our table. At 10 euros with all the wine you can drink it is a good deal. I had lentil soup as primo, then pork loin followed by ice cream. Not bad.

  Today we got up early and walked 4 km in the dark and sunrise .then had a boiled egg with cup of coffee and a chocolate croissant. I walked with Acura, a japaneeses orthopedic surgeon for most of the day. He is from Okinawa, and has a nice family. It was fun to hear about medicine in Japan.i am sure I will be going over to see him. I also walked with a woman from Wisconsin,Liz ,who fractured her ankle last year going over the Pyrenees. She came back for more. Such power! I also helped a man from Argentina with his blisters. He looked disheveled and homeless. After a moments reflection, I realized that's what I look like. I laughed.

  Today's walk took us through the Meseta, a huge open plateau of open farmland in northern Spain. We stopped for lunch(see picture) cutting up cheese,chorizo and baguette with a nectarine. It seems in walking through these small,beautiful villages, that the people and life are very simple. The attitude of the people emanates a serious note, unlike say Italy. They are friendly,just busy. It seems that without the camino the little villages would not servive.

  We have walked with cyclist , and the bus people. One can develop an attitude. A hundred people will get off the bus and impose themselves upon the trail. The cyclists will wiz by with out warning. The bus people will walk 2 km then get back on the bus. One can develop an attitude. But, we are not exactly, suffering like the original pilgrims. Cervasa in he plaza, private rooms, good food. Soooo, pass on the judgement.its all good.

   I still have my beard.Dave and Dan have shaved theirs. They thought it made them look old. I have kept mine but remain in reconciliation of past present and future. I look old. I think that if I keep it long enough I will be reconciled.Not sure.i remember using the word maturation with my elderly patients. It seemed like a soft "old" . Not sure I like the term anymore. Too close to home. Anyway, maybe if I loosen the vanity belt a bit, I can be a little more substantial.Who knows.

  All is good

Buen Camino

The Walk to Terradillos de Templarios

DAVE: The morning ritual continues. Awake at 6:00 am, dress, pack, and go by 7:00. This is the first day in about four days that I awoke and felt great. Of course, our feet hurt to some degree and we have aches (back, legs, shoulders) but those pains are normal to us these days. No blisters so all is good.

We are moving west towards Leon at this time. After today, we will reach Leon in three days. No problemo! This day is a milestone in a way. After today, we will be more than halfway through our journeymto Santiago. I can't believe how fast it's gone!

The walk today started outnwith a seemingly endless walk along a very straight road for hours. The first village was 18 kilometers away, a four hour trek. The terrain was flat and lifeles for miles and miles. Just you and the straight road ahead of you.  Now I know what it must be like to walk across Iowa or Kansas. 

I thought of my friends and loved ones today. Last night during dinner, I checked my email and Facebook.  It's comforting to know that many of them are actively following our progress to our final  destination. Although we are separated from them physically on the journey, they are with us in spirit. We are not ever alone.

Speaking of not being alone on the Camino, an interesting event occured to day (the second in the last few days). As we were walking on the straight and narrow gravel road to apparent oblivion today, we noticed ahead a travel bus in the distance parked on the path ahead of us. As we approached, the door opened and out spilled about 50 "travel pilgrims".  Apparently they are on a Camino tour and as part of the tour, they get dropped off at select points of the Camino and walk about 7 kilometers. Then the bus picks them up and off they go to Leon for lunch or is it Santiago for dinner. Whatever. All I know that we walked pass this tidal wave of "travel pilgrims" just as they were starting their walk along the same trail as us.  Needless to say, Jim and I had to power-walk (just short of a jog) to get some distance between them and us. We had to stay ahead of this wave of chatty people with their little day packs, clicking cameras, and fresh legs.  They look so crisp, clean, and energetic compared to us. We definitely lose the contest of "best smelling Pilgrim" compared to them.  As we passed them, it reminded me of trying to walk in a crowded mall. "Pardon....Buen Camino....hola....excuse me....pardon...excuse me....Buen Camino.  You get the idea, I'm sure.

The day actually seemed to go by quickly.  No clouds in the sky was a signal to us that as the day wore on, it would be hot.  We wanted to keep walking with few rest stops so we could arrive at our albergue.  We arrived safe and sound around 1:30. Not bad for a 27 kilometer walk today (16 miles). Those distances don't bother us any. Ore.  In fact, we could have walked another 10 kilometers no problem.  Tomorrow is another day.  Cannot wait!

Buen Camino (even to the Traveling Pilgrims).

Day 16 carrion de Los condes

JIM:.  Dragging. Came in last night after two 30 km days and was beat. Plopped on the bed and actually felt teary eyed I was so beat. And beat was the word.l thigh,feet,l shoulder and persistent cough. Dinner was more tranquil than usual. I looked around the room and virtually everyone looked spent. Nevertheless, we still managed our toast with Dan "la Arribas, la bajo,la centro, la dento".

   Great night sleep.i am a new man! I walked with new found energy ahead to secure an albergue. The day started with a coffee and a 30 minute or so walk from town in the darkness, only to watch the sun rise again. We walked along the river through several villages, stopping for breakfast with torte queso(cheesecake). Yes,cheesecake for breakfast! We continued on to our destination. As we walked there were open fields of tilled pasture. Interestingly, mustard color on the right and a dark brown on the left.Not sure why. It reminded me of eastern washington minus the mideaval villages.

  I stopped to light a candle at a small church. I have been thinking a lot about two of my family. The candle lighting is symbolic for the light. It is not necessarily religeous for me. Rather, I am hoping that I can see the light with them and that they can find their light.

   Today is our friend Larcios bday. I managed to find a birthday cake in town(not a small feat). I also managed a reservation for 8 for dinner. We will have lamb as he loves sheep. It should be a fun time.

Arrived in Boadilla del Camino

DAVE: Today seemed to be the first challenging day for us, mentally and physically. We left Hontanas around seven in the morning with headlamps blazing into a landscape of barren hills and mesas separating isolated little villages nestled among cottonwood trees.

As the day wore on, we climbed one such mesa and continued along the treeless plateau, walking for miles in the blazing sun. Vast nothingness in all directions. The few villages we passed through were welcome jewels in the desert.

The sun and the distance seemed to take its toll on everyone.  As we stumbled into Boadilla del Camino, we were flat out beat.

I mentioned in an earlier post how our Camino family is morphing, with some traveling to different villages for the night, and others foregoing the rest day in Burgos. Along the way, however, we continue to meet great people. Each day is a brand new adventure in new relationships. We chanced upon a solo walker, Galena, who is originally from Bulgaria, but has transplanted to South Africa.  She has even been to Molokai and know some of the people we know ion island! I met fellow Pittsburghers as well (Jim and Scott). It's a small world indeed.

What is interesting about the Camino, is the fact that nationality or profession is not what defines us. We are all lumped together. From the unemployed college graduate, to the doctors, the lawyers, police chiefs, the hot-shot entrepreneurs, it doesn't matter. What matters is the fact we enjoy each other as we make our journey together. 

Today was a hard day, no doubt. Twenty-eight kilometers in a treeless landscape under a blazing sun is no fun. But it was a good day and a half.  New friendships are being made as we progress westward.

Buen Camino!

Day 14

JIM: 14 days out and here we are.

The first thing I have to blog is food in Burgos.OMG.My wife would have been in heaven.Amongst other things foie gras on perfect crustina x 2. I had an extra one for you my dear. I also had a great bartender who I befriended and provided me with great crioja and ribiera. It was a good evening.

   The second thing is Burgos. Really beautiful. The calle leading into the cathedral was lined with Henry Moore sculptures. The cathedral was back lit at night and spectacular. It has to be my favorite big city so far on the camino.

  I went to Bilbao yesterday with Dan,Deon,and Laercio. The bus ride in was nice. We slept for a while and awoke with rain. Bilbao was incredible. The Guggingheim museum was amazing. Architecturally, one of the most amazing structures I have seen. One of the artists reminded me of Ross Brown. Huge panels of metal arranged in different patterns, like a labyrinth. Another artist, from Pakistan had an incredible audiovisual presentation. The city was cool. We went to the cathedral,basilica,bus station etc. the one disappointment was food. just did not quite hook up there.

  We walked from our apartment, in burgos, early this morning. We had a very nice apartment. We walked along the river,then slowly out of town. We walk past many planets, including linea perennia,rosa hips,eryngium,scabiosa and I believe some type of colchicum bulb(unsure of name).i placed a picture of them. They push up through the worst rocky soil.It reminds me of the resilience and strength of the people here.

Although many people have dropped out, you see little old ladies walking solo. It is amazing how many woman do this solo. It is easy to walk solo part of the day and meet up with your friends at night. These people doing solo are inspirational.

   We walked over a plateau for around 15 miles. It was barren,stark fields  and desolate. On the periphery of this ubiquitous desolation were many windmills. Massive monoliths of matter,

ambivalent,silent and motionless. Waiting for a gust of energy to propel its wings into continuing similar Circles, some faster some slower. We, as humans, are stuck in the circle of life. Ashes to ashes, dust to dust. It is inescapable. Yet, our spirit attempts to transcend that circle and become something more.

Spirituality, religion, call it what you may.

   We walked into this little town after walking through no where.it was like an apparition, a mirage.unbelievable, happy. Cervasa and sun.

Life is good.

   

Rest Day in Burgos

DAVE: Our thirteenth day was a rest day in Burgos.  

This day of rest is our first of three that are planned (the second rest day is scheduled for Leon; the third is not set but will be used as a weather/rest day when needed). jim and our Brazilian friend, Laercio, took an early bus to Bilbao to check out the Guggenheim museum.  The rest of the gang stayed in Burgos to sightsee.  I couldn't bring myself to waking up early for a 6:45am bus ride today, knowing that my next rest day is a week away.  Better to rest the legs since tomorrow is a thirty kilometer walk to Hontanas.  The following day after tomorrow is a 28 kilometer walk.  Two long days in a row.  

The morning was spent eating pastries and taking a tour of the stunningly beautiful cathedral.

Words cannot describe the beauty, history, and architecture.  I first visited the cathedral last year and couldn't wait to see it again. Pictures just can't seem to capture the magnificence of the cathedral, bur I tried anyways. 

This day is a bittersweet day in a way. For many pilgrims, Burgos is the first rest stop on the Camino.  Most of our friends we have met along the way are resting today, but for others, no rest day is planned. They plan on forging ahead on the trail today. Some will stay in different villages beyond Burgos.  It is with sadness that they move on since we all know we may not meet up again due to being "off cycle" with our schedules. Friendships develop and can be quite strong, but can be fleeting if personal contact information isn't exchanged to stay in touch in the future.  That's the way of the Camino.  You enjoy the frienships you make along the way for however long it lasts. Our "family" of friends is ever-changing.  I wish Wadi, Jerry, Paul, Gillian well if I don't see them again on the Camino. 

The afternoon was spent getting provisions from the supermercado, doing laundry,

catching up with the blog, and resting.  Tomorrow is a other day, and I am itching to get back on the trail. Buen Camino.

Day 12-to Burgos

JIM:  I was walking up a grand hill/ mountain yesterday and found an open field of blooming heather. The sun was out and there was no one around. It was beautiful and peaceful. I performed Mary's service with Dave videoing it. I will send an email with it to all of the family.

  Not long afterwards I came across an injured Brit. She most likely broke her right arm and had a bunch of lacerations. It was really cool to help Paddy out. After that I was walking through a pine forrest and there were these white butterflies everywhere. I have some ideas but not quite sure how to explain it. A very long day yesterday, but loved my cervasa in the plaza waiting for the woman to come. Met some spanish young woman whe were ending there trip today and some people from Bellingham and North Carolina. Dinner and wine last night were uneventful. Everything has potatoes(French fries).we are now in a different wine appelation "catalydon".

  Today we got up early and walked for 30 minutes  of darkness and again saw sunrise.

We walked up a long hill about 12 km before having breakfast. I was starving and without coffee. Dave,Leairceo,our Brit friend Dwidea and I. I think we had the best breakfast yet. I had two egg tortillas with bacon and vegetables with caffee con leche. We walked into the city of Burgose along the river. I thought it was beautiful. We then went to the bus station for our tickets to bilbao(Leairceo,i Dan and Deontae). Then went to the cathedral got our leger stamped and sat in the plaza with a cervasa witnessing this amazing structure.

  We are all staying at an apartment downtow. It is really nice for only 17 euro per night. We plan on meeting a bunch of people at the cathedral, then go to dinner.we will get up very early to take the bus to Bilbao.the rest of the group will stay back,rest and shop.

All is good

Solitude and Remembrance. On the way to Ages

DAVE: Today's walk from Belorado to Ages was a 30 kilometer effort. Sunny skies with no clouds in sight; a glorious day for walking. The terrain has transformed to cultivated wheat fields that extends for miles and miles.  The fields are plowed at this time of year so the landscape is barren.  I can only imagine how beautiful the fields would look in the Spring.

Today, Jim and I left Belorado around 7:30 this morning.  We had a long 30 kilometer walk and had reservations in Ages that would only be held until 3:00 this afternoon.  What fine reservations they were.  Three beds and three mattresses on the floor. The floor thing didn't seem too attractive but that was what was available for us ( note: we did get accomodations with 6 beds!). At any rate, we had to book today.

For most of the walk today, Jim and I walked apart.  Granted, we were within 200 meters of each other for most of the way, but the distsnce was enough to allow personal space and time for reflection.  This day, I really wanted to be alone to reflect on my life, my relationships, loved ones, present and past. It's interesting in hiw we morph on the Camino.  For the first few days, our focus was towards our physical well being.  How are my feet doing? Are my shoes too tight? Can I make the distance today? How the hell can I ever finish thhis thing? The focus is totally inwards.  Gradually, however, our focus shifts away from ourselves and in any case, I have become more introspective along The Way. It's difficult to explain fully, but hopefully you get the idea.  More of this later, I'm sure. 

Relationships are a very important component of the Camino.  Our "family" of close friends has grown to about 20 to 25. I find it amazing how close we all have become with each other.  Afterall, we just met less than two weeks ago! But the Camino is a very personal experience and all of us share a common connection.  I find it amazing how strong the connections are.  Friends for life for many of them.  

Today was a very personal journey for each of us.  This is an outward journey as well as an internal one.  The exploration continues. Buen Camino

Day 10: In Belorado

JIM: 

   I have to add a few things about yesterday. I arrived first and secured our room. I went,subsequently, to the hotel Parador and with cervasa in hand sat outside in the sun at this fancy hotel.Paradise.  I thought of my friend Forrest.He would have been in heaven. I was there for 3 hours. They had a festival of the patron saint of santo Dominico with dancing music and a large statue they carried. I started alone,was joined by a spanish woman,then by my friends from Britain,Brazil, and holland. And finally by Dave and Laairceo. It was really cool. I think the sun was great for my cough.

  We slept in a private room for 4. It was great. We all got a good night sleep.

   We arose a little late and we're going to have breakfast, but decided to walk on to the next village. Sunrise was beautiful, paint brushing the hillside with pinks and oranges.

I walked by many fields of sun flowers, which got me thinking. They were all bowing with the weight of the sunflowers. I realized that through my life I have generally plowed through things with head up and at times felt as though a posture of acquiescence was weak Llike the posture of the sunflowers .Llike thousands of people in a large field bowing.I think now to acquiese sometimes takes more strength. It may seem religeous, but it is different for me. The Camino is also about acquiescing.

   We were at a little restaurant waiting in line.People were trying to crowd in front, some succeeding. Laarcio was frustrated and moved on. I teased him about being tranquil,as he is always saying that to me and others. It is interesting that some people just do not get the spirit. In seattle people who cut in front while driving is the one thing that really bugs me. Maybe I am changing.that will be the test.

   Anyway, we walked from village to village with rolling hills. Met some more people. Jim from Portland, a mental health retiree and poet was interesting. We spoke about spirit and art. The conversation helped pass the time walking. I was thinking I would get an idea for art for the camino and did.

   We arrived at our place and will go to church,dinner then bed. The six of us will be sleeping with our friends Deon and Dan.

Another great day.

Buen camino

Santo Domingo de la Calzada tonight

DAVE: We left early this morning in darkness; the earliest time, I think, to date. It's the most peaceful time of day and I love the remote feeling as we walk with headlamps guiding us. The air is chilly at this time of day, but the sky was cloudless.  We knew it would be a great day for walking. The terrain is still rolling hills but nothing major for us.  It appears the vineyards have given way to fields of mostly cut wheat or other cultivated crops. I sense our grape tasting days may be numbered. 

This morning, I walked with a nice elderly gentleman from Madrid.  He told me he was on his fourth Camino and we shared our thoughts on our personal interpretation of the Camino.  Everyone has their own reasons for walking The Way. Some, religious, others spiritual. What fascinating stories we have heard over the last week. More to follow, I'm sure.

Tonight, we have traveled about 220 kilometers, with about 560 kilometers left to go.  Each day is it's own unique journey, filled with conversation, story-telling, foot rubbing, and seemingly endless walking. But we are now heading west, and each day is one day closer to Santiago. Our near-term focus is getting to Burgos, three days away.  We plan on taking our first rest day there and I cannot wait for the opportunity of waking up in the morning with no walking scheduled. We all are looking forward to that.

The Camino still seems to be crowded in the villages. We find that it is very important to have your accommodations confirmed a couple days in advance. The Albergues are always eager to assist us, and have made countless calls on our behalf in making future reservations. Last year, it was not a problem getting a bed for the night when entering the villages.  This year, we find more and more Albergues booked full upon arrival. So far, however, we have been able to plan ahead to get beds.

All is generally well with us, health-wise.  Our feet are tired at the end of the day, said me blisters crop up, and some of us have developing coughs.  Nothing serious, however so onward we go. Tonight we're resti g in Santo Domingo de la Calzada