The last few days of walking has been through undulating hills, passing through little hamlets. The path is typically 10 15 feet wide with old rock walls on either side and allees of trees,typically oak or chestnut. Frequently cattle are being moved down the streets by the local farmers and avoiding the piles of dung helps keep the concentration up. I must say I am growing somewhat weary of the manure smell,as it emanates from the fields to the path. It is truly rustic in this part of Galicia.
The food is changing slightly. We have had cheesecake for desert the last 3 days ,a change from flan or ice cream. Also I have moved from veal to steak with mushrooms the last several meals. I also had fresh beans for the first time today, as French fries has been the staple for some time. We had a full lunch today so will go out late for tapas.
The wine is changing as well as we are in the area ribiera de sacra. I had thought that represented wine from the Duoro, but in fact it does not.it still is predominantly menzia grapes. We are getting Albariño now with torrentes whites, which is fun. We had a bottle of ribiera del duoro for lunch which was good. Last night our group of 9 was joined by shelly from New Zealand and Alfred from Germany. It was fun with some politics thrown in.Alfred ended up sharing a room withDavid,Learceo and I.
A couple of funny things. I was sitting on the toilet yesterday and 1/2 through the lights went off.i guess I am too slow about my business. Anyway I managed to fumble my way through the dark and complete the ordeal. I walked out of the stall to the right and went back to finish my breakfast. I realized that I did not have my money belt. I panicked and looked everywhere. Finally, I asked the owner of the place, who,it seemed, felt as though I was accusing him of taking it. We looked everywhere and finally went back to the stall. We found it in the left stall. Damn light systems.
The second funny thing is about the Lithuanians carrying the cross. There are over 20 of them and they are very loud,chanting and take up the entire trail. Frankly,they irritate most of us. I was walking ahead and Dave said "hey Jim, here comes the Liths". I turned and said "geez". Right then a woman leading the group ,carrying a Virgin Mary statue passed. She said "it's not Jesus it's Mary" then said "don't you care". I did not respond as she passed with her contingency. We all got a bit of a laugh, as I truly did not mean it the way she took it.
Yesterday,reluctant to admit,was amazing that afternoon. It not all suffering. Our place had a nonheated salt pool. Dan and I dove in and lounged by the pool with cervasa. It was about 75 degrees and beautiful. We paid 15 euros for a great place.!
We walked into town over a bridge that was beautiful and are now just headed out to see the village and have tapas.
Buen camino
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ReplyDeleteDave and Jim-
ReplyDeleteTrying this again. I think last time I responded, it was from Dad's iPad in Molokai.
So encouraged that you both have your sense of humor at this point in the journey- don't know that I would. Thank you for sharing all of the capers- from barely getting back in time to one Refugio, losing reservations from exercising your freedom as a 'consumer', restroom efficiencies, and the various levels/ disciplines of pilgrims. Especially the Jesus parade- you've provided so many smiles and moments of levity for your followers. Thank you for this gift.
Which has me wondering- for those that copter it in to Santiago, take the bus then walk to break a sweat and get the Camino dust on their shoes- doesn't this defeat the purpose/ call of the Camino? Just a question for reflection. And, the authentic journey that you both are on- earns the right to use lavender soap- a badge of honor/ authenticity!
I have enjoyed re-reading your posts- as many of us have. As I am sitting here, enjoying a pedicure, I have to wonder how your blisters are and whether you both still have all your toenails? I bet you regard your feet differently at this point in your Camino- almost a sacred vessel for the distance they've carried you and what they've allowed you to experience.
When you arrive in Santiago, and are receiving your compostelas, please mark this moment with photos and video. What that moment will feel like- The joy and sense of accomplishment, a spiritual moment, marking your achievement. And, when you get to the cathedral, please light a candle and say a prayer for your Camino blog followers. You've got quite the support system over here on the other side of the world!
Thank you for this amazing experience, your stories and the beauty of nature and triumphs of the human spirit that you've shared.
Buen Camino.